Yves Saint Laurent's existentialist-inspired Fall collection for the house of Dior, titled "Souplesse, Légèreté, Vie" (featuring the iconic crocodile-embossed leather jacket lined in mink) is dark, provocative, and not universally well-received. Although the press praises the ultramodern "Beat Look", Dior's financial backers are shocked. They take advantage of Saint Laurent's military service and replace him with Marc Bohan. Saint Laurent sues Dior for breach of contract, wins, and starts his own fashion house together with partner Pierre Bergé. Valentino Garavani opens his haute couture atelier in Rome with partner Giancarlo Giammetti.