While the 1990s began with opulence and more traditionally feminine styles - remnants of the 1980s, a variety of influences from the music scene and youth culture (such as grunge, techno and girl power) as well as minimalism soon found their way into the fashion world, the latter of which was to dominate until the end of the decade.
Gianni Versace's designs are a great example of this development. Starting the 1990s with baroque opulence and colorful maximalism, his designs became sleeker and sleeker over the course of the decade. Versace was also instrumental in turning the 1990s into the decade of the supermodels - Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista and Naomi Campbell didn't even get out of bed for less than 20,000 dollars a day. Alongside the rise of grunge, waifish Kate Moss conquered the fashion world and embodied the controversial heroin chic. She succeeded the amazonian supermodels and paved the way for more unconventional beauties such as Karen Elson, Maggie Rizer and Audrey Marnay.
Calvin Klein was not only the designer who contributed significantly to Kate Moss' success with his provocative campaigns for the perfume Obsession and his underwear. Together with Jil Sander and Helmut Lang, he also pioneered the minimalism trend that strongly shaped 1990s fashion. Minimalism peaked around 1998, when styles could not get any more minimal, and at the turn of the millennium a little more romance and hints of playful frills returned to fashion.
In the course of the1990s, traditional ideas of how a woman should dress and more conservative styles were ditched for good, and the quest for eternal youthfulness and sexiness became the center of attention. This was reflected in the imminent departure of old couturiers such as Hubert de Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent as well as the slow decline of fashion houses such as Emanuel Ungaro and Christian Lacroix that proposed more traditionally feminine aesthetics. Traditional houses signed up young and wild designers - Givenchy hired Alexander McQueen, Christian Dior appointed John Galliano, and Gucci hired Tom Ford - and these injected a lot of sex into their designs and the marketing of the brands, a development that would culminate in the first half of the 2000s.
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Fashion Timeline 1990-1999
1990
Jean Paul Gaultier designs the costumes for Madonna's Blond Ambition Tour, including two corsets with conical-shaped cups, a pin-striped suit, a black clergyman's robe with a neon crucifix and a cage vest. Gianni Versace presents his new Atelier line at the Haute Couture shows in Paris for the first time. Halston passes away.
1991
Josephus Thimister becomes head designer at Balenciaga. Karl Lagerfeld shows denim creations for Chanel. Supermodels Claudia Schiffer, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista and Christy Turlington are omnipresent and command dream salaries.
1992
Gianni Versace presents his bondage collection. Karl Lagerfeld is reappointed head designer at Chloé until 1997. Oscar de la Renta becomes head designer at Balmain and succeeds Erik Mortensen, who joins Jean-Louis Scherrer. Ann Demeulemeester shows her first womenswear collection in Paris. Junya Watanabe starts working under his own name as part of Comme des Garçons. Escada's Margaretha Ley and Emilio Pucci die.
1993
Gianni Versace and Dolce & Gabbana show hippie-inspired collections. Vivienne Westwood's Fall collection "Anglomania" goes down in history with Naomi Campbell's epic catwalk fall caused by her dizzyingly high platform shoes. Issey Miyake launches Pleats Please. Dries van Noten shows in Paris for the first time. Franco Moschino presents the "X Anni di Kaos" exhibition to mark the label's 10th anniversary. Madame Grès dies.
1994
Gianni Versace presents his safety pin collection. The safety pin dress achieves cult status when it is worn by Elizabeth Hurley at the Oscars. Jean Paul Gaultier presents his tattoo collection for spring, Issey Miyake shows flying saucer dresses. Helmut Lang introduces an influential avant-garde collection for fall, combining unusual materials like rubber with delicate lace. Alexander McQueen presents "Nihilism", his first professional catwalk show. Calvin Klein launches the groundbreaking unisex fragrance CK One. Franco Moschino dies.
1995
To celebrate his 20th anniversary, Thierry Mugler stages a spectacular show that costs millions. Tom Ford presents sexy creations in velvet and satin for Gucci. Alexander McQueen shows his controversial Highland Rape collection.
1996
Miuccia Prada shows her retro-inspired "Ugly Collection". French fashion house Givenchy hires British designer John Galliano for its haute couture collections. Ossie Clark passes away.
1997
John Galliano is transferred from Givenchy to Christian Dior and is succeeded by Alexander McQueen. After Karl Lagerfeld, Stella McCartney becomes head designer at Chloé. Rei Kawakubo presents the legendary "Body Meets Dress. Dress Meets Body." show for Comme des Garçons, also known as "lumps and bumps". Martin Margiela is named creative director of womenswear at Hermès. Nicolas Ghesquière becomes head designer at Balenciaga. Julien MacDonald launches his eponymous label. Gianni Versace dies.
1998
Alber Elbaz takes over the prêt-à-porter line at Yves Saint Laurent. Alexander McQueen presents the collection "Untitled", which was originally named "The Golden Shower" and was retitled after objections from sponsor American Express, and "Joan", which is considered one of his most important shows. Erik Mortensen and Roger Vivier die.
1999
Alexander McQueen presents his iconic "No. 13" show with model Shalom Harlow being spray-painted by robots. Louis Féraud and Horst P. Horst pass away.