FRAGRANCE

The Only Vintage You Wear Closer Than Silk

Since the early 20th century, fashion and perfume have walked hand in hand. Pioneers like Charles Frederick Worth and Paul Poiret were the first to translate couture into scent - making luxury more accessible and their names part of everyday life. Ever since, nearly every great designer has followed, turning fragrance into the most intimate expression of fashion.

THE ART OF FRAGRANCE

Everything You Need to Know About Vintage Perfume

Why choose vintage perfume?

For many, it’s about more than simply wearing a scent - it’s about revisiting a piece of history. Some seek fragrances that have long been discontinued, chasing the memory of a beloved signature scent or the emotions tied to a particular time and person. Others turn to vintage bottles to rediscover formulas as they were originally created, before modern regulations, shifting tastes, or cost-driven changes altered them. And for collectors and connoisseurs, vintage perfume offers rare editions, pure perfume concentrations, and beautifully crafted bottles that are as much treasures as they are fragrances.

Discontinued and Irreplaceable

One of the most compelling reasons to seek out vintage perfume is that many beloved fragrances are no longer in production. Perhaps it was a signature scent you wore in your youth, a perfume your mother or aunt always kept on her vanity, or a fragrance you’ve only read about in old magazines. Once discontinued, these perfumes vanish from the mainstream market, making every surviving bottle both rare and precious. Beyond rarity, vintage perfume holds an emotional dimension: a single spritz can conjure vivid memories of people, places, and moments long past - a direct link to a personal history that can’t be recreated with modern releases.

Reformulated Over Time

Even when a fragrance is still sold today, it may no longer smell the way it once did. Perfume formulas are often reformulated - sometimes subtly, sometimes dramatically, often without much announcement. Why does this happen? There are several reasons. Regulatory changes can restrict or ban certain ingredients, especially natural ones that may cause allergies or pose health concerns. Rising costs of raw materials can push brands to replace expensive natural essences with synthetic substitutes. And finally, market trends influence reformulations, leading brands to "update" their formulas to match current tastes. These changes can alter the character of a perfume. For many fragrance lovers, vintage bottles are the only way to experience the original formula in its truest form.

Rarity, Quality, and Collectibility

Vintage perfumes often appear in concentrations and presentations that are rarely offered today. Pure perfume - the richest, most concentrated form of a fragrance - was once more widely available, often in exquisite bottles or larger sizes that have since become highly collectible. These editions carry not only the intensity and longevity that distinguishes Parfum from Eau de Parfum or Eau de Toilette, but also a sense of artistry: every detail, from the glass flacon to the packaging, was crafted to embody luxury. For collectors and fragrance lovers alike, vintage bottles represent a chance to own a piece of perfumery history - rare, desirable, and impossible to reproduce.

How Should I Store Vintage Perfume?

Ideally, keep your bottles in their original packaging, away from direct light and sunlight, and protect them from heat or sudden temperature changes. When stored correctly, perfumes can remain stable and wonderfully fragrant for decades. We carefully check each bottle we offer to ensure its quality and fragrance before it reaches you.

Understanding Perfume Concentrations

Perfume comes in a range of concentrations, each influencing both intensity and longevity. From the lightest Eau Fraîche and Eau de Cologne to Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Parfum (Extrait de Parfum), the percentage of actual fragrance oils versus alcohol increases, giving richer concentrations a more pronounced presence and longer-lasting scent. However, concentration is only part of the story. The composition and ingredients of a perfume - whether fresh, woody, or oriental - also determine how it develops on the skin and how long it lasts.

Insider Tip for Collectors and Connaisseurs

The same perfume name can be very different depending on its concentration. Eau de Toilette, Eau de Parfum, and Extrait de Parfum are not just stronger or weaker versions of one another; they often present distinct interpretations of the fragrance, sometimes feeling like entirely different perfumes. Always consider this when selecting a bottle, especially when seeking a vintage version you remember fondly.

FRAGRANCE FAMILIES

What is Chypre?

A classic Chypre fragrance generally consists of three layers (top / heart / base), with contrast between them being central to its character. The top, or opening, is typically built around citrus notes such as bergamot, and sometimes lemon, orange, or neroli. These bright, fresh elements create the immediate impression. The heart, or middle, is formed by floral notes, often rose and jasmine, sometimes supported by other florals. This layer adds elegance and provides the “soul” of the fragrance as it transitions. The base, or dry-down, is the true signature of Chypre. It relies on oakmoss, labdanum, patchouli, and woods, sometimes rounded out with musk or animalic notes. These components give depth, contrast, and richness, with a sometimes earthy or slightly bitter tone that lingers on the skin. The balance between these layers is crucial. If one element dominates too strongly, the fragrance may lose its classical Chypre identity, and in particular the base is decisive, with oakmoss (or modern substitutes) defining the character.

Chypre does not exist in a single rigid form, but has developed into a variety of subfamilies over time. Floral Chypres emphasize a more prominent floral heart, with rose, jasmine, or iris softening the structure and creating a romantic impression. Fruity Chypres introduce notes such as peach, plum, or berries in the opening or heart, adding juiciness and a modern energy; Guerlain’s Mitsouko is a celebrated example. Green Chypres incorporate galbanum or leafy accords, which sharpen the freshness and create a crisp contrast with the mossy base, as in Chanel No. 19. Leather or animalic Chypres are darker and more rugged, with smoky, tarry, or animalic undertones that lend them depth and character, often suiting evening wear. Finally, fresh or woody Chypres lighten the structure with a brighter opening and a greater emphasis on woods, often using fewer mossy notes or modern substitutes, making them appealing to contemporary tastes.

Fragrance Families

Fragrance families provide a way of navigating the vast world of perfumery. Each family carries its own mood, tradition, and olfactory structure, helping us to understand why certain perfumes feel bright and playful while others seem deep, mysterious, or sensual. Knowing these categories not only refines one’s appreciation of perfume but also makes it easier to recognize one’s own preferences and explore vintage compositions with confidence.

Oriental or Amber

Oriental, now often called amber fragrances, are known for their warmth, depth, and richness. They typically combine sweet resins, balsams, and vanillic notes with spices and woods, sometimes enriched by ambergris or labdanum to create a glowing, sensual aura. Their structure is built for opulence, often with long-lasting projection and a velvety dry-down. Within this family, spicy ambers emphasize cinnamon, clove, cardamom, or pepper, heightening the sense of exotic mystery. Gourmand ambers lean toward edible sweetness with chocolate, caramel, or tonka bean, evoking desserts and indulgence. Woody ambers blend resinous warmth with sandalwood, cedar, or patchouli for a grounding balance, while floral ambers soften the intensity with jasmine, ylang-ylang, or orange blossom. This versatility makes amber fragrances especially expressive, ranging from smoky and dramatic to luminous and comforting.

Floral

Floral fragrances are among the most beloved and diverse. They can highlight a single flower, known as soliflore, such as rose, violet, or lily of the valley, or unfold as a bouquet, blending several blossoms into a harmonious whole. Aldehydic florals, made famous by Chanel No. 5, add a sparkling, abstract brightness to the floral heart, while green florals integrate galbanum or leafy notes for crisp freshness. Fruity florals mix blossoms with peach, apple, or berries for youthful vibrancy. Woody florals add sandalwood, cedar, or vetiver to anchor the flowers, creating sophistication, while solar florals conjure the radiant warmth of sunlit blooms like tiare or frangipani. Amber florals balance luminous blossoms with warm, resinous undertones. This variety ensures the floral family spans from airy and delicate to rich and heady.

Woody

Woody fragrances are grounded in the character of woods such as sandalwood, cedar, vetiver, and patchouli. They are known for their warmth, elegance, and enduring depth. Citrus woods pair zesty bergamot or orange with woody foundations, giving brightness and balance. Spicy woods weave in cardamom, cinnamon, or nutmeg, lending warmth and intrigue. Ambery woods fuse resins or vanilla with the woody base, creating a sensual undertone, while aromatic woods incorporate herbs like rosemary, sage, or thyme for freshness. Fruity woods lift the composition with soft juiciness, while leathery woods add smoky, tarry facets for boldness. Woody fragrances can feel meditative, natural, or sophisticated, often anchoring compositions with their lasting resonance.

Spicy

Spicy fragrances celebrate the intensity and warmth of spices, from fiery pepper to exotic saffron, cardamom, clove, and cinnamon. They are often layered over woods, ambers, or florals to enhance complexity, giving fragrances an edge that is simultaneously lively and sensual. Fresh spicy scents emphasize crisp herbs or bright pepper, while warm spicy compositions glow with cinnamon, nutmeg, or saffron. Aromatic spicy blends unite herbs with spice, leaning toward masculine perfumery traditions, while oriental spicy scents link resins, vanilla, and spice for a luxurious finish. Spices add character and unpredictability, ensuring the fragrance feels vivid and alive.

Gourmand

Gourmand fragrances are a relatively modern category, inspired by flavors and edible treats. They often revolve around notes like vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, almond, or praline, creating an indulgent sweetness. While the base is often edible in character, gourmands may be combined with fruits, florals, or woods to create balance. Fruity gourmands highlight berries, peach, or citrus against a sweet background. Woody gourmands temper dessert-like richness with sandalwood or patchouli, while floral gourmands weave rose or jasmine into vanilla and tonka for sensual sophistication. This family evokes comfort, warmth, and playfulness, while remaining versatile and alluring.

Fruity

Fruity fragrances are joyful, juicy, and radiant. They blend notes of apple, peach, pear, berries, or exotic fruits like mango and pineapple with floral, woody, or musky backdrops. Sweet fruity scents lean toward lush, ripe impressions, while fresh fruity compositions highlight citrus, green apple, or melon for a sparkling effect. Fruity florals combine blossoms with juicy accords for youthful charm, while fruity chypres place the fruit against mossy, earthy bases for more complexity. This family often feels approachable, energetic, and contemporary, appealing to those who enjoy brightness with a sensual twist.

Leather

Leather fragrances are bold, distinctive, and full of character. They recall the smoky, slightly animalic scent of leather itself, often achieved with birch tar, styrax, or castoreum, rounded by tobacco, woods, or honey. Floral leathers soften the sharp edges with rose or violet, creating sophistication and polish. Woody leathers lean on cedar or sandalwood to emphasize richness, while ambery leathers heighten warmth with resins or vanilla. Tobacco leathers bring a smoky, dry quality, evoking vintage elegance. The leather family is less about sweetness and more about depth, edge, and unmistakable presence.

Fougère

Fougère, meaning fern in French, is a classic family often associated with men’s perfumery, though not exclusively. Its structure is built on a triad: lavender for aromatic freshness, oakmoss for earthy depth, and coumarin (derived from tonka bean or hay) for powdery sweetness. Bergamot often crowns the composition with a citrusy top, while herbs like geranium, rosemary, or thyme add layers of character. Variations include fresh fougères with marine or citrus accents, spicy fougères with warm depth, and green fougères with leafy sharpness. This family feels timeless, clean, and reassuringly elegant, a foundation of modern masculine perfumery.

Fresh Citrus

Fresh citrus fragrances are crisp, invigorating, and effervescent. Built around lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, or orange, they create a sparkling opening that feels light and energetic. Because natural citrus oils tend to evaporate quickly, these fragrances may not last as long as heavier families, but they provide an immediate burst of freshness. Spicy citrus scents add pepper or ginger for a lively twist, woody citrus pairs zest with sandalwood or vetiver for balance, aromatic citrus blends herbs with brightness, and floral citrus softens the sparkle with orange blossom or neroli. This family is closely tied to classic eau de colognes, embodying clarity and brightness.