VOGUE UK

British Vogue began in 1916 as a spin-off of its American counterpart, created in response to wartime shipping restrictions that made the export of Vogue US impossible. With a nod to its American roots, the magazine quickly earned the affectionate nickname "Brogue" from its staff. Following the leadership of Elspeth Champcommunal (1916-1922), Dorothy Todd (1922-1926), Alison Settle (1926-1934), and Betty Penrose (1935-1939), Audrey Withers took the helm as editor-in-chief in 1940. Withers faced the challenges of the Second World War head-on, steering the magazine through bombings, material shortages, and logistical struggles. Her determination was legendary; she even instructed her staff to take their typewriters into basements during air-raid alarms so they could continue their work undisturbed. Withers’s no-nonsense leadership helped Vogue UK remain a pillar of British fashion during some of the darkest times in history. After Withers’s retirement in 1960 and a brief tenure by Alisa Garland, who left to become editor of Woman’s Journal, Beatrix Miller took over in 1964. Miller played a crucial role in shaping the magazine’s direction during the 1960s and 1970s, notably fostering the careers of groundbreaking photographers such as David Bailey and Snowdon. She brought the progressive spirit of the Swinging Sixties to Vogue, balancing the magazine’s high fashion credentials with a growing engagement with societal issues. Under her leadership, Vogue became synonymous with the bold, energetic vibe of the era. When Miller retired in 1984, Anna Wintour took over as editor-in-chief, ushering in a new era that mirrored the changing roles of women in the business world. Wintour's tenure, though brief in the UK (ending in 1987), would eventually lead her to the helm of American Vogue, where she became a global fashion authority. Wintour’s departure saw the arrival of Liz Tilberis, who further transformed the magazine. Tilberis increased circulation and commercial success while remaining beloved for her warmth and sociable nature. Her impact in the UK set the stage for her subsequent success at Harper’s Bazaar in the US, where she would go head-to-head with Wintour in a glamorous rivalry. Tragically, Tilberis passed away in 1999 after a battle with ovarian cancer. In 1992, Alexandra Shulman took over as editor-in-chief and went on to make an indelible mark on Vogue UK for an impressive 25 years. Shulman’s leadership saw Vogue’s circulation soar by over a million readers. She spearheaded a significant shift in beauty standards, advocating for greater diversity and inclusivity in fashion. While the magazine faced controversy in the early 1990s due to its association with the “heroin chic” look, Shulman defended the magazine’s editorial choices, famously remarking, “Not many people have actually said to me that they have looked at my magazine and decided to become anorexic.” Throughout the 2000s, Shulman was a vocal advocate for healthier body representations and pushed fashion houses to reconsider their tiny sample sizes.