FASHION MAGAZINES - 1960s

The progressive and future-oriented 1960s saw a significant shift from bespoke haute couture to ready-to-wear fashion. These changes were driven by a variety of factors, including the post-war economic boom, which led to an overall increase in wealth, and the women's liberation movement, in which more and more women entered the workforce, earned their own money, and desired more practical, affordable, and fashionable clothing. The rise of youth culture with its desire for non-conformist fashion (as opposed to the traditional and conservative lifestyle of the older generation), the rise of pop culture, and the growing influence of mass media constantly brought about new trends and accelerated the fashion cycle. Technological advancements such as the development of synthetic fibers and mass production, as well as the transformation of retail structures from bespoke ateliers to department stores and high street boutiques, accompanied this transition. These developments were accompanied by a geographical shift of focus away from Paris as the only trend-setting authority towards the US, where Jackie Kennedy and her designer Oleg Cassini significantly shaped the look of the 1960s, and to Swinging London, which later in the decade became the new fashion capital of the world.

Fashion changed from the very feminine and elegant style of the 1950s to sleeker, less restrictive cuts that were more suited for everyday wear. With the sexual liberation - the break of social taboos, the emergence of oral contraception, the increased acceptance of tampons - skirts became shorter and shorter. The Space Age showed itself in geometric cuts and futuristic materials and accessories. Flashy colors and large-scale op-art and psychedelic patterns were all the rage, and by the end of the decade, with the emergence of the hippie movement, as a feminist counter to the formerly feminist miniskirt, the move to the maxi skirt came, as well as the rise of bohemian fashion with an ethnic and folklore vibe. The most significant beauty trends of the 1960s include bold and expressive eyes (highlighted by an incredible range of false eyelashes), pale lips, and voluminous statement hair, enhanced by hair rollers, teasing combs, and tons of hairspray, as well as the widespread use of hairpieces and wigs. Among the most emblematic fashion designers of the 1960s are Mary Quant, who pioneered the miniskirt, Yves Saint Laurent, who challenged traditional gender norms and redefined women's clothing (think Le Smoking), "metalworker" Paco Rabanne, Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges, who were at the forefront of futuristic space-age fashion, and British bohemian Ossie Clark.

Fashion Timeline 1960-1969

1960

Yves Saint Laurent's existentialist-inspired Fall collection for the house of Dior, titled "Souplesse, Légèreté, Vie" (featuring the iconic crocodile-embossed leather jacket lined in mink) is dark, provocative, and not universally well-received. Although the press praises the ultramodern "Beat Look", Dior's financial backers are shocked. They take advantage of Saint Laurent's military service and replace him with Marc Bohan. Saint Laurent sues Dior for breach of contract, wins, and starts his own fashion house together with partner Pierre Bergé. Valentino Garavani opens his haute couture atelier in Rome with partner Giancarlo Giammetti.

1961

"Breakfast at Tiffany's" is released on October 5. The opening sequence with Audrey Hepburn gazing longingly through the windows of Tiffany & Co. on Fifth Avenue, wearing a sleeveless black satin dress by Hubert de Givenchy, becomes iconic. Hepburn's style and the Little Black Dress are copied until today. Jacqueline Kennedy appoints Oleg Cassini as her exclusive couturier. He designs 300 sophisticated outfits for the First Lady, making her an instant style icon and shaping the look of the decade. Yves Saint Laurent opens his couture house and presents his inaugural collection. André Courrèges, who formerly worked for Balenciaga for 10 years, starts his own fashion house. Carmel Snow, editor-in-chief of Harper's Bazaar from 1934 to 1958, passes away.

1962

Esteemed fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert founds the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) which seeks to promote American fashion and accessory designers in the global economy. Lambert is also the founder of New York Fashion Week (1943), the Met Gala (1948), and the International Best Dressed List (1940). The white cotton bikini worn by Ursula Andress in the first James Bond film "Dr. No" becomes one of the most famous bikinis of all time. The actress later says that she owed her career to this bikini. In 2001, the iconic design sells at auction for $60,000. Jean-Louis Scherrer opens his couture salon in Paris.

1963

Mary Quant launches her groundbreaking PVC rainwear. Her "Wet Collection" inspires other designers to work with this innovative plastic-coated cotton and draws international attention to London fashion. The avant-garde designer Rudi Gernreich wins the Coty American Fashion Critics Award. The first recipient of the award, traditionalist Norman Norell, is shocked. He returns his Coty Award in protest. Karl Lagerfeld is appointed creative director of Chloé. Geoffrey Beene starts his fashion business. Jean Dessès closes his Haute Couture atelier and declares that he will concentrate on ready-to-wear.

1964

The groundbreaking "Moon Girl" collection by André Courrèges causes a stir in the scene and kickstarts the futuristic fashion of the Space Age. Paco Rabanne presents his debut collection "12 Experimental Dresses". Rudi Gernreich launches his famous breast-baring monokini, which is about to get officially banned in some countries. Barbara Hulanicki opens the first Biba boutique in London. The job carousel keeps turning: Gerard Pipart is appointed creative director of Nina Ricci. He succeeds Jules-François Crahay, who presents his first collection for Lanvin. The previous Lanvin designer Antonio del Castillo opens his own business.

1965

Yves Saint Laurent launches his legendary Mondrian collection. Emanuel Ungaro opens his Haute Couture salon and will expand to Prêt-à-porter in 1968. Karl Lagerfeld is appointed head designer of Italian fur and leather brand Fendi and creates the iconic FF logo. Mila Schön presents her first collection in Florence. The first issue of fashion magazine Linea Italiana is published.

1966

The romantic, folklore-inspired hippie style emerges and will prevail for the rest of the decade alongside the geometric and futuristic Space Age fashion. Paco Rabanne presents his groundbreaking Haute Couture collection "12 Unwearable Dresses in Contemporary Materials", made of plastic and metal and worn over the naked body. Yves Saint Laurent launches his Pop Art collection, debuts "Le Smoking", and opens his "Rive Gauche Boutique" for ready-to-wear. He is the first couturier to open a boutique entirely dedicated to prêt-à-porter, pioneering the fashion world. Mary Quant is appointed Officer of the Order of the British Empire. She accepts the award at Buckingham Palace in a minidress.

1967

Yves Saint Laurent launches his iconic Africa-inspired collection featuring unusual materials such as wooden beads, raffia, and straw. He also designs Catherine Deneuve's costumes for Luis Buñuel's "Belle de Jour." André Courrèges launches his ready-to-wear line "Couture Future." Dior introduces the young "Miss Dior" line, designed by Philippe Guibourgé. Missoni's fashion show at Palazzo Pitti in Florence creates a scandal because the models do not wear bras under their dresses and the spotlight accidentally reveals their breasts. The Missonis will not be invited the following year, but the publicity made by the event increases the brand's popularity. Jil Sander opens her boutique in Hamburg. Couturier Jacques Heim passes away.

1968

Based on an idea from 1967, Yves Saint Laurent creates a one-off design for a photoshoot of Vogue Paris with Veruschka - the iconic Safari dress is born. A ready-to-wear version will be sold at the Rive Gauche boutique in 1969 and becomes an instant success. Yves Saint Laurent also continues to experiment with sheerness and presents two of his most iconic designs - a version of "Le Smoking" with Bermuda shorts and a transparent blouse, sans bra, and a completely transparent chiffon dress with a belt made of ostrich feathers. Valentino presents his all-white breakthrough collection "Bianca" (famously photographed by Henry Clarke in Cy Twombly's Roman apartment, modeled by Benedetta Barzini and Marisa Berenson), which also introduces the iconic "V" logo, and designs Jackie Kennedy's dress for her wedding to Aristotle Onassis. Hubert de Givenchy launches his ready-to-wear line "Nouvelle Boutique". Textile designer Zandra Rhodes starts her fashion business. Calvin Klein opens his company. Ralph Lauren launches "Polo", his first full line of menswear. Cristóbal Balenciaga closes his couture house. Fashion photographer George Hoyningen-Huene passes away.

1969

For his fall haute couture collection, Yves Saint Laurent collaborates with Claude Lalanne, who makes golden casts of model Veruschka's body that are worn with two chiffon dresses, one blue and one black. Halston launches his ready-to-wear line. Fashion photographer Erwin Blumenfeld passes away.