FASHION MAGAZINES - 1950s

From Dior’s New Look to Pastel Dreams

The 1950s marked a transformative era in fashion, reflecting a collective yearning for femininity, elegance, and a return to polished glamour after the austerity of wartime styles. This decade saw fashion magazines like Vogue and Harper's Bazaar playing pivotal roles in shaping and promoting trends, highlighting the collections of iconic designers such as Christian Dior, Cristóbal Balenciaga, and Pierre Balmain. Collaborations with renowned photographers like Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, and Horst P. Horst elevated the visual artistry of editorial spreads, capturing the essence of 1950s fashion in stunning detail.

The defining silhouette of the era was characterized by voluminous, full skirts worn with crinolines or petticoats to achieve dramatic volume and movement. Christian Dior's groundbreaking "New Look," introduced in 1947, continued to dominate fashion, symbolizing a luxurious and glamorous return to femininity with its nipped-in waist and full skirts, celebrating the hourglass figure. While full skirts were a hallmark of the time, tailored suits and pencil skirts also gained prominence, offering women a streamlined, sophisticated alternative. Structured jackets, fitted waistlines, and slim-fitting skirts became wardrobe staples for the modern woman. For more casual occasions, twinsets - matching cardigans and tops - offered a chic yet comfortable option. Soft pastel hues, such as pink, mint green, baby blue, and lavender, became the colors of choice, often paired with floral prints and polka dots to create a romantic, feminine aesthetic. Accessories were integral to completing the polished look, with gloves, hats, and statement jewelry adding elegance to both formal and everyday outfits.

The makeup styles of the 1950s epitomized timeless glamour, emphasizing flawless, porcelain-like skin, bold red lipstick, dramatic winged eyeliner, and perfectly arched eyebrows. Supermodels of the decade, including Jean Patchett, Dovima, Suzy Parker, Mary Jane Russell, Sunny Harnett, and Lisa Fonssagrives, graced the pages of leading fashion magazines, embodying the beauty ideals of the time. Fashion icons such as Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Brigitte Bardot set enduring standards of style, inspiring women not only in their era but for generations to come. The 1950s remain a defining decade, celebrated for its iconic designs and timeless elegance that continue to influence fashion today.

Dive Into the Fashion Milestones of the 1950s and Discover How Each Year Shaped the Couture World. Click to Explore!

The 1950s Fashion Chronicles: Discover the Year's Major Trends and Designers

1950

In 1950, Christian Dior launched the "Ligne Verticale" for his Spring collection, followed by the introduction of the "Ligne Oblique" for Fall, characterized by asymmetrical elements. Lanvin appointed Spanish couturier Antonio del Castillo as its creative director, and the brand operated under the name "Lanvin-Castillo" until 1962. Meanwhile, Italian fashion designer Roberto Capucci opened his atelier in Rome.

1951

Christian Dior introduced the "Ligne Ovale" for his Spring 1951 collection, followed by the "Ligne Longue" in Fall. Meanwhile, the first collective fashion show of "Alta Moda Italiana" took place in Florence, showcasing Italy’s finest haute couture names, including Fabiani, Sorelle Fontana, Simonetta, Carosa, and Emilio Schuberth.

1952

Christian Dior launched the "Ligne Sinueuse" for his Spring 1952 collection, followed by the "Ligne Profile" for Fall. That same year, Hubert de Givenchy opened his couture house, debuting the highly successful "Separates" collection. This collection featured the iconic "Bettina" blouse, named after his muse and favorite model, Bettina Graziani.

1953

On June 2, Elizabeth II was crowned Queen of England, and her coronation gown, designed by British couturier Norman Hartnell, became a symbol of royal elegance. The richly embroidered gown weighed 30 pounds and took an astounding 3,500 hours to create. For her coronation shoes, Roger Vivier conceived jewel-encrusted heels and was appointed as the bespoke shoe designer for Christian Dior, a position he would hold until 1963. Christian Dior launched the "Ligne Tulipe" for Spring 1953, followed by the "Ligne Vivante," also known as "Ligne Coupole," for Fall. That same year, Pierre Cardin presented his debut collection. Audrey Hepburn, who had become a style icon, asked Hubert de Givenchy to design the costumes for her film Sabrina, and the two formed a lifelong friendship and collaboration.

1954

At the age of 71, Gabrielle Chanel reopened her couture salon after a 15-year hiatus, staying true to her timeless style. Despite criticism for not aligning with the fashion trends of the 1950s, which she deemed a "reactionary nightmare," her collections continued to sell well. Meanwhile, Chanel’s rival Elsa Schiaparelli closed her salon, marking the end of an era. The fashion world also mourned the loss of Jacques Fath, who passed away at the age of 42 in Paris; his wife, Geneviève, took over the business. Christian Dior presented the "Ligne Muguet" for Spring 1954, followed by the "Ligne H" for Fall, which featured an unaccentuated bust. Pierre Cardin’s "Robe Bulle," with its balloon-shaped skirt, captivated audiences, while two young talents—21-year-old Karl Lagerfeld and 18-year-old Yves Saint Laurent—won the Woolmark Prize, each for groundbreaking pieces (Lagerfeld for a canary yellow coat, Saint Laurent for a cocktail dress). Their success marked the beginning of their enduring impact on the fashion world.

1955

Christian Dior introduced the "Ligne A" for Spring 1955, followed by the "Ligne Y" for Fall, further solidifying his dominance in the fashion world. In a move to expand his jewelry business, he closed a licensing deal with German manufacturer Henkel & Grosse. Dior also hired Yves Saint Laurent as his creative assistant, a pivotal moment that would shape the future of fashion. Meanwhile, Emilio Pucci debuted his "La Siciliana" collection, showcasing his vibrant, geometric prints and cementing his place in the fashion scene.

1956

On April 19, 1956, Grace Kelly married Prince Rainier III of Monaco in a spectacular wedding dress that would become one of the most iconic bridal gowns in history, symbolizing timeless elegance. Later that year, during her first pregnancy, Kelly was photographed holding a Hermès handbag to shield her growing belly from the paparazzi. This moment led to the creation of the iconic "Kelly bag," which would become a symbol of sophistication. Meanwhile, Christian Dior introduced his "Ligne Flèche" for Spring 1956, followed by the "Ligne Aimant" for Fall, continuing to define the fashion landscape of the decade.

1957

Christian Dior presented his "Ligne Libre" for Spring 1957, followed by the "Ligne Fuseau" for Fall. However, on October 24, the fashion world was shaken by Dior's sudden death. His young assistant, Yves Saint Laurent, was named his successor and, at just 21 years old, became the head designer of the Dior house. Meanwhile, Guy Laroche opened his couture salon in Paris, marking the beginning of his notable career in fashion.

1958

In 1958, Yves Saint Laurent presented his highly anticipated debut collection as Dior's new head designer, introducing the Trapeze line, which would become one of the most iconic dress silhouettes of the 1960s. From Spring 1958 until Fall 1960, Saint Laurent designed six collections for Dior. In the same year, Lucien Lelong, for whom Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain had created in the 1940s before opening their own couture houses, passed away. Karl Lagerfeld joined Jean Patou as head designer, a position he would hold until 1963.

1959

Jules-François Crahay, who had been working for Nina Ricci since 1952, was appointed head designer of the house. He held this position until 1963, when he succeeded Antonio del Castillo at Lanvin. Pierre Cardin launched his groundbreaking prêt-à-porter collection in collaboration with the Paris department store Le Printemps, which led to his (temporary) expulsion from the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture.